Once there was MAGI-
One solution to rugs moving on carpets that had been recognize for years was to cut
up an old blanket to roughly the size of the rug and lay it between rug and carpet.
The principle behind this was almost the same as MAGI-
Nailing the rug through the carpet into the floor may seem to be the ultimate method but is NOT the best solution. The nails will of course damage the carpet and the powerful forces that cause rug creep will continue and will almost certainly cause the rug to distort. If the rug is later removed the pile of the carpet underneath will appear distorted too. This is one of the main reasons that methods of control that only secure the rug round the edges or from the ends are less successful.
There have been sticky products designed for rug control. The most successful of those recognize the need to keep carpet and rug apart. Unfortunately in some cases the stickiness transfers to the carpet and will require a carpet cleaner to clean it out. Over the last years of hot summers I understand that the problem has become familiar to carpet cleaning companies. The most expensive of these products as far stickiness is concerned are more stable and really do work.
The cheapest and most effective solution is polyester wadding of the type used in
upholstery and quilting and obtainable in most haberdashers. This is not quite the
same specification as MAGI-
With the growing popularity of wood floors with rugs, there has been a matching growth in accidents in the home from people slipping on rugs and just slipping. Keeping rugs secure is therefore important. What options are open to you.
Both carpets and rugs perform better when laid on underlay. There are two types of underlay that also help reduce the slip of rugs. One is a black crumb rubber underlay usually made from recycled car tyres bonded with latex. The other is an underlay that is crumb rubber on one side and felt on the other. Both when laid rubber side down serve the dual purpose of protecting the rug and reducing the possibility of it slipping.
There have for many years been rubberised nets that are very effective in reducing slip. These nets tend over time to pick up polished and dust and so become less effective. So that they need replacing regularly.
However very few manufacturers of these products point out that their products are in fact washable. This refreshes the grip and lengthens the products active life.
Please note that I always say reduce the possibility of slipping, because there are always going to be exceptions, for example floors that have become wet or oily.
About 40 years ago I worked in the carpet department in a large department store.
The floors were mostly polished woodblock. An enthusiastic young salesman used to
demonstrate how effective the anti-
ADVANTAGE OVER WOOD FLOORS
It is know that wall to wall carpet, especially wool, offers one of the most cost effective additions to home insulation. It makes sense that, together with steeply increasing fuel bills, a return to wall to wall carpet is an environmentally sound idea. Wool keeps sheep warm in the most extreme weather.
It has also been noted that accidents through people slipping on smooth floors has increased proportionate with their use. You are unlikely to slip on a carpet.
Smooth flooring usually needs a different sort of cleaning to fitted carpets, which just needed vacuuming. If there are large rugs this means two cleaning processes. This is another good reason for a return to fitted carpets."
CARPET COMPLAINTS AND PROBLEMS.
Because the tufts seem to be falling out, the instinctive reaction from most customers is that the carpet is faulty. In most cases the problem actually lies with the fitting and is not a manufacturing fault at all.
When a carpet is fitted it needs to be stretched tightly onto the carpet gripper. To achieve this the fitter has various tools. Generally the device used is known as a knee kicker and sometimes in large rooms he may use a power stretcher. Both these devices have downward steel pins sloping forward that engage in the carpet. The pins are very sharp. On the knee kicker, at the other end of the shaft from the 16 pins is a square heavily padded buffer. It is this that the fitter thumps using his knee to spread and stretch the carpet tight. On the power stretcher are about 60 pins similarly set but the method of use is different. Instead of the pad there is a system of extendable rods to enable the tool to be braced against the opposite wall and then using a powerful levering system to stretch the carpet down the room.
In both cases the pins have to be kept sharp. If they are allowed to become blunt or damaged in any way, tufts can become snagged by the damaged pins and so become partially or completely pulled out.
In this highly price competitive market carpet fitters are under considerable pressure to lay as much carpet a day as they can. This can lead to tools not being properly maintained. The result, the complaint above. See Free Fitting
Something else that can cause tufts to rise up or fall out is vacuuming too soon after the carpet is laid. This is particularly true of quality traditional woven carpets as against what are known as tufted carpets. Tufted carpets rely on latex to anchor the tufts in. The pile in traditional woven carpets is held in by the tightness of the weave and maybe some resin.
How does this happen?
Carpets are made from a continuous spun yarn and are cut into tufts during manufacture. Tufts are effectively a U shape. Over the course of the first months the two ends of the tufts go through a process known as bursting. This is where the raw ends open up a bit like a flower. The effect of this is that the ends are now more bulky than the middle and thus more secure. Until the pile has burst vacuuming can cause tufts to come out completely or partly.
If one end of a tuft does stick out NEVER pull it right out. This will make the weave at that point looser and adjacent tufts are more likely to get pulled out.
The best course of action is to carefully cut down the bit that sticks out to be flush with the surrounding pile. The correct tool for this job is called napping shears. Personally I use scissors to cut the worst off and then an old electric shaver to get it to finally smooth the last bits
Generally this is not a fault, nor is it fading. Try looking at the faded area from the opposite direction and you will be surprised to see that it either looks the same colour as the surrounding area or actually darker than the rest of the carpet. The effect is known as shading or tracking.
So what's going on?
This effect occurs to all pile fabrics, carpet, velour, velvet dress fabrics, Draylon velvet upholstery and velvet curtains, but is most obvious in plain colours. In all pile fabrics but carpet in particular, at the time of manufacture the pile slopes fairly uniformly in one direction. It is never vertical. This is called Pile Direction. If new carpet is laid in more than one pieces Pile Direction has to be taken into account so that the colour looks uniform.
Have you seen the striping effect on a lawn after recent mowing. With the darker row the grass was pushed forwards towards you by the roller and you are looking deep into dark depths of the grass where the colour is richest, while when the mower went away from you the grass was pushed in the opposite direction, away from you and you are looking at the brightly lit backs of the grass that seem many shades lighter. This is what happens with all carpets but is most obvious in plain velvet carpets. It is happening to patterned carpets but it is almost impossible to see. In the busiest area of the carpet the pile can get pressed down into a different direction so it appears to be a different colour to the rest of the carpet.
A not uncommon complaint is the appearance of dark or even black lines around the
perimeter of the room against the skirting boards or as multiple tram-
What is happening is that dirt and dust that has gathered under the floors over the years is being sucked through gaps between the boards by vacuuming and staining the carpet in the process.
Carpet should always be laid on a paper felt or newspaper as well as underlay. This stops dust being sucked through. This is vital if a quality felt underlay is used but it will also help extend the life of a rubber underlay.
The problem of the staining around the perimeter is more difficult as paper-
Why risk your investment in carpet for the sake of a few extra pounds. The fitters are not working for free and will need to be paid by the shop. You are buying fabric to put on the floor to be walked on. Without a good underlay and careful fitting you are seriously jeopardizing your investment.
So how can it be free?
There are three possible reasons, or a combination of them, behind this 'free' offer.
1. The carpet price has been inflated to cover this cost of fitting and underlay.
2. The supplier is using the cheapest underlay and fitters that they can find.
3. The manufacturers price to the shop has for some reason been discounted from its usual price and rather than selling it cheaper, the shop are selling on at its usual price and absorbing the cost of fitting in the extra profit. The shop could actually be making a bigger profit.
There is nothing wrong with honest profit. Businesses that don't grab every opportunity to make extra profit will go out of business in this highly competitive world.
Lets look at each in turn. If the price of the carpet has been inflated to hide the fitting cost then you are still paying for it. This is deception if it is claimed to be free. Whereas if the carpet is advertised as "Fitting included" then it is truthful. In both cases though they may also be using the cheapest fitters, the second reason above. To make enough money each day these cheap fitters need to get the job done as fast as possible so that they can cram as many jobs into the day as possible. That sort of rushed work is hardly likely to produce quality fitting. There have also been cases where complaints about poor fitting have been greeted with "Well, madam, you didn't pay for fitting. It was free. Nothing we can do". While a trip to trading standards will always produce satisfactory results, it is surprising how many people accept what the salesman says and do nothing.
In the third case there are honest traders and dishonest traders. Carpets are discounted to the shops for various reasons. The colour of a production run of a carpet, due to a mistake in dying, may be so different from the samples that it cannot be sold as such and it is then usually heavily discounted to get rid of it. This is absolutely perfect carpet in every other way. It represents a very good buy, if you like the colour.
Carpet ranges get up dated and old designs and colourways get discounted to clear the warehouse. Again perfect carpet and a good buy if you like the carpet.
But carpets can be discounted because there is some imperfection or flaws in the weave. These rolls of carpet are usually sold to the shops at less than they cost to make.
I will relate a story from my own experience. At the time I worked for a high class home furnisher. A customer came in one day with a sample of carpet. She needed the sittingroom carpeted. I recognised the sample as coming from a range of carpets that was produced in two qualities. Heavy duty and medium duty. She asked me for our price for the heavy duty. I gave her a unit price on the carpet. At which point the customer stopped me, saying that a local carpet shop had told her that they would do it for less than our price with free fitting. I asked for the opportunity to at least let me measure up for an estimate. "It wouldn't be worth my while staying at home", she said.
About a year late the customer returned asking us to quote for hall stairs and landing. She went on to explain that when the sittingroom carpet arrived she notice that it was labelled as the medium quality and not the heavy quality that she had ordered. She hand demanded that they took it back and supply the correct quality. Of course they had to.
When I went out to estimate, she showed me the original estimate for the sitting room. I noticed that the price that they had charged for carpet gripper was 3 times our price. I lifted the corner of the sittingroom carpet to see which underlay they had used. It was the cheapest foam chip product made, yet they were selling it at a higher price than the 25 year guarantee underlay we supplied. The excess profit on those two items alone would have more than covered the fitting cost.
The message here is if you are comparing estimates, be sure that you are comparing like with like and carefully check what is actually delivered.
There was a carpet retailer some years ago who used to use the following in their
Occasionally the backing will delaminate. This can be a manufacturing fault but again it can be the result of bad fitting and over stretching of the carpet. Where the fault lies will be evident to expert inspection.
When I was studying furnishings at the College for the Distributive Trades in London over 40 years ago, someone asked the floor covering lecturer what was the best vacuum. His reply was very telling.
"It is more than my job's worth to mention a brand name," he said, "but lets just say that anything that beats as it sweeps as it cleans is knocking the living daylights out of the carpet."
The student went on to challenge the lecturer. "But people have always beaten carpets, since long before vacuums were invented."
"0h yes," said the lecturer, "but they always beat them from the back, never the front." The reason that carpets were beaten from the back was that it knocked the dirt, dust and grit out.
Whilst dust tends to sit near the top of the carpet pile, grit tends to get right to the bottom, the very roots. A vacuuming system that beats and hammers the carpet pile down onto the hard grit is unlikely to be doing any good to the carpet and could well be damaging the pile.
The drums that do the beating have raised beater bars alternating with brushes to vigorously brush the pile while the vacuum tries to suck up the dirt.
Now static electricity makes things cling. Have you ever had a problem trying to throw away a bit of plastic wrapping that has become statically charged? You pull it off one hand and it sticks to the other. Have you ever stuck balloons to the ceiling at Christmas by brushing them on your clothes? Brushing vigorously creates powerful static and in the case of a vacuum at the one moment that it is least wanted, when you are trying to get the bits off.
When carpets are first laid they have to be stretched tightly across the room -
Some cheaper carpets can be more susceptible this problem.
Wadding must be laid under the ENTIRE area of the rug, and trimmed so
that it just doesn't show. About 5mm (a quarter of an inch) in all round.
THE SECRET OF SUCCESS LIES IN ITS DELICATE WEB-
It needs no sticking or sewing except in certain special cases (see below).
For large rugs and carpets on carpets it can be laid in strips side by side. It is desirable to use the fewest number of strips.
Never use 2 pieces where 1 piece could be used even if it is wasteful.
The less that it is disturbed the longer it will last.
OTHER USES TO WHICH WADDING WAS BEEN PUT
Keeping Draylon Velvet Seat Cushions in place.
To enable a carpet to be fitted on top of another carpet where the first is stuck down and ripping it up is thought to be undesirable. There can be no guarantees in this case but it has been done successfully and if the carpet is laid on smoothedge or securely turned and tacked, we can see no reasons why, it should behave any differently to any other rug laid on carpet with wadding between.
Certain of the Hong Kong made Chinese Rugs especially TAI PING and TIENTSEN have
a lining which can be a roblem. The lining is only fixed around the edge. When laid
on a wadding it seemed that the problem of creep was made worse rather than better.
Analysis of the problem showed that while the anti-
The solution was given to us by a customer. If stitches are run through the lining
of the rug into the back of the rug itself at various places across its back, so
as to eliminate any chance of the rug moving on its own lining, then wadding will
do the rest. Lined Chinese are a problem with ALL anti-
When using wadding for all long narrow runners, it must always be laid in ONE piece where ever possible however wasteful this may seem. Otherwise it may fail. For very long runner use combinations of the longest pieces
Modern Fitted Carpeting is very hard and stiff with resin and latex when new and
occasionally will not settle securely on to the wadding. This is one of the cases
where the wadding will perform best if stuck to the back of the off-
These very attractive silky rugs are very light and may need to have the wadding
stuck to the back as in the case of the off-
As shiny and smooth backed mats offer nothing for the wadding to cling to, again it may need to be stuck to the offending rug. Acrylic adhesives are best in this case
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WHY RUGS CREEP
Rugs creep on carpets for various reasons, but by far the most common is The Shuffle . The pile of a carpet has what is called a pile direction. Carpet pile does not stand up straight but slopes in one direction through the length of the carpet.
When a rug laid on top of a carpet is trodden on, the hundreds of little tufts of the carpet are compressed down and forward in the direction of their lean. In doing this they push the rug that is resting on them fractionally in the same direction. As the weight of the tread is removed the pile of the carpet brushes back ready to push again! Even vibration can cause this!
Individually each tuft may only exert a small force but across the whole area of the rug the force is multiplied by hundreds of thousands. Furniture standing on these rugs can be carried along with them, so formidable are the forces involved.
On 2nd June 1953 the Coronation of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II took place in Westminster Abbey in London.
For the occasion a magnificent carpet was specially made by James Templeton & Company Limited of Glasgow. The gold Abbey carpet needed to meet critical specifications, both symbolic and practical. The shade had to be right for symbolic reasons. The weave had to be very close and short with as little pile direction lean as possible, for it was calculated that if Her Majesty had tried to walk, dragging her long heavy train against the slope of the pile, the multiple resistance of the millions of tufts would have been the equivalent to something like towing the Queen Elizabeth liner behind her.
The type of carpet weave selected was Chenille Axminster. This unique construction, now sadly no longer made, filled the bill. Chenille Axminster could be woven up to 30ft wide, important in such a vast installation. The closeness of weave and critical pile height and reduced lean, not only reduced drag but gave a greater evenness of colour.
After the Coronation the great carpet was cut up and distributed to churches throughout England where, because of its hard wearing quality, it can often still be found in use to this day.
In its time Chenille Axminster was regarded as a supreme quality. The Abbey carpet was plain but large patterned Chenille Axminster Rugs were available until the mid to late 1960s. These rugs are now collectors items.
Chenille Axminster was eventually considered too expensive to produce and production was discontinued and the looms were destroyed.
unable to exert its pushing force, actually holds it in place!
the back of the rug clinging to the MAGI-
There are many different products on the market. One product uses spikes
that engage in the carpet, a bit like the claws of a cat and we all know
what cats and dogs can do to carpets with their claws!
Another group of products is sticky or tacky. It is designed to stick the rug
to the surface of the carpet pile. It is not unknown for this to leave a sticky
residue on the carpet which is hardly desirable.
There are Velcro® like products and hairy nets. All these products have two things
in common. They are all more expensive than MAGI-